5-Lug Swap (front)
Contributed by ChadMK4
This will make ABS inopperable and probably throw a code on your dash lights. This will only work by removing the ABS sensors. If you are ABS sensitive and must have ABS then do not do this upgrade. Here’s what ya start with.
Remove the 14mm caliper bolts and remove and move the caliper so that it’s sitting on the tie rod. Then loosen the 19mm bracket bolts and remove that. The rotor should slide off.
Use a screw driver to remove the dust cap by wedging it in the crack and twisting slightly and working your way around the cap so that it comes off evenly because you will be reusing this part. Use needle nose pliers to bend the cotter pin straight and slide it through the hole. Do Not let this get dirt on it. Same thing goes for the dust cap. Do not let dirt get in or on these. Remove the arresting crown. Its the funny looking thing that looks like a kings crown. Don’t get dirty. Remove the nut. I don’t know what size this thing is because it’s just over finger tight and I used channel locks (I know wrong tool, but they were right there.. Smile) to loosen it up. Now when you take the nut off, the hub may want to sag a little because it’s pretty heavy and the bearing will want to slide out. So put your finger on the key ring so that the bearing and key ring don’t take off on you.
Ok, this is what you should be looking at now. There are three little phillips head screws inside the hat/ shield. Spray them down with some Pen-a-trate or some Sea Foam penatrating spray to help break them free. while you are waiting on those to soak up the spray, go to the other side and repeat the process up to this point. Once you’re done there, get a phillips head screw driver and get ready to give yourself a hernia because these screws are ON THERE! I had to drill one out because it stripped.
Now to remove the ABS sensor. It has two little 10mm bolts holding it on there. I removed them and replaced them back in the hole. But I usually do that with most everything that I take apart so that if I ever need to put something back in there I have the bolts waiting and not lost somewhere. And then I have to make a wasted trip to the parts store. There are two other 10mm bolts holding the line firm to the strut and the firewall. The line runs throught the wall and clips together with the mate on the other side. Unclip this and remove the rubber grommet to pull everything through the hole and sit on the ground. I used a utulity knife to split the grommet down the line. I pulled the line out and replaced the grommet back in the wall with the hole facing down.
Now it’s time for the 5 lug hub/ rotor combo. Before installing this, I would remove the key ring and bearing and put more grease in there as the grease that is in there is probably pretty old.
Ok. Now put the new combo on the spindle making sure that the key ring doesn’t fall out onto the dirty floor in the process. Snug it up on there so that there are threads showing on the spindle. Put the big nut back on there and get it finger tight. Use your monky wrench or what ever size that is wrench (Maybe a 22mm or 24mm??) and just give it a little pressure. Nothing more than about 8 lbs. of pressure. Put on the arresting crown. Use a new cotter pin and place in the hole. bend it like the one was when you took the original one out.
Put the dust cap back on by twisting it lightly until it finds a good spot to slide on there. Then use a light tapping tool (hammer, wrench,etc) to tap around the edges until it’s all the way on. Use the 19mm bolts and put the brake bracket back on. Make this very Snug!! Like 40-45 lbs of pressuse. Remember that these things are the things that keep you and the wall from making to close of friends when you’re on the track.. Smile Put on the Caliper with the 14mm bolts and make this about 30 lbs of force so that it’s not going anywhere anytime soon either.
And now go finish up the other side, clean up and you have now completeld the early 80’s 300zx 5 lug front end conversion. This is one of the easiest conversions I’ve ever done. Completely no fabbing whatsoever. *Edit:* you can still use a back plate for the rotor if you prefer. But it will have to be the one that is from the 300zx. They both have the same 3 screws.