Z32 Big Brake Swap (thanks to Deviant)
calipers… this is 30mm z32 300zx turbo aluminum with smurf spooge paint job
rotors… brembo slotted and outsource crossdrilled 30mm
z32 to s13 conversion line… lost the pic show the full line but thats one end
this the other end at the caliper… perfect fit
rims that fit or enough spacers
take all your wheels off and jack the whole car up
put all corners on jacks… dont be ghetto and leeve a corner on your jack i dont care how much you paid for it.. .they fail
you might only be doing the front brakes but you really should bleed the whole system.
start on which ever front side you want.
take off caliper and slide assy but dont take off the line yet… just hang the caliper up so you dont screw up the rubber line.
youll see why later
at this point you decide if you want to keep the splash shield and trim to fit the z32 caliper or take it off completely. i took it off…. cut myself on a cut up one before. (warning – shield also acts as a shield for abs sensor but i say fuck abs).. so… if you wanna take it all off
remove spindle nut cover
remove cotter pin
remove nut retainer thingy
unscrew 3 screws holding shield
good time to replace bearings or repack em with grease.
torque nut to 25-30 ft lbs 3 times to seat bearings and back off 1/4 turn(this is critical cuz its holding your fvckin wheel on your car, skip this and die.. or fvckup your bearings at least) torque wrenches are cheap insurance
install retainer, cotter pin(new one best), cover
put on new disc(hopefully its drilled to what you gotz… mine is 4/5 x 114.4 so i can go 5 bolt if needed)
this is where i ran into trouble
with the disc on put a couple wheel nuts on and snug. see if the inside of the disc hits the control arm
(i know this shouldnt be a problem with s13 arms cuz theyre longer and would camber the hub and disc away from the lip on the arm)
so i took a dremel to the lip
till i had and 1/16″ gap between the disc and control arm with the wheel nuts snug
shoulda did this way in the beginning but tap your z32 caliper mounting holes 12×1.25 thru before trying to install it if its a used piece and all cruddy. i got to this point and realized i cant get my bolts all the way thru. so i had to go drive to 5 places(fvck hawaii) to find a 12×1.25 tap(car quest 6$).
case of beer, swearing at car and morning after….
NOTE: use anti-seize compound on all bolts (especially at dissimilar metals…thank me later)
install caliper with
bleeder nipple at highest point to get all the bubbles out… only difference between the 2 calipers.
install line at caliper (try reusing the banjo fitting and die… thats stupid shit.. really wanna fuck around with your BRAkes? conversion lines are cheap and stainless steel too)
install line at the holding thingys whatever theryre fvckin called
WAIT: forgot about fitting your wheel for caliper and disc clearance
i had to use 1″ of spacers to clear the caliper
this fitting is a bitch to break apart…. dont try using a wrench cuz youll just round it off.. i used some vice grips on the hard line side and a wrench on the rubber line side. you DONT want to fuck this hard line up.
NOTE: when you break the line open here you gotta be fast to put the new line on cuz when its open air is getting in the system. air in system = BAD
now install pads, shims, slide pins, retainer pin,
bleed that caliper..
SPEED BLEEDERS ROCK total 1 man job… ive used the vacuum, pressure methods and by far if you dont have the $$ for those, speed bleeders are the cheapest way to go.
now… repeat for other side.
then bleed all brakes. rear left, rear right, front left, front right, abs actuator front, abs actuator rear.