My goal was to have the car started up by the end of 2023. As I inch closer and all the F—- set backs with the body and paint RIP OFF, my tuner going MIA (with some of my parts) and now I have to find another tuner, having to revisit welding for IAC and PVC system on the pipes that were done earlier this year and also Intake manifold’s leaking insert…
Geezus it’s just been a nightmare. Depressing and annoying.
This past trip (11/12/23 weekend) let me know what I currently face.
- NTK wideband 02 was missing. Find out Bucky has it, but didn’t tell anyone and not replied in a timely manner, so I had to order another one since I didn’t know what was going on. With that said, I don’t know when I will see that piece again as Bucky hasn’t contacted or responded to me. I had to get another Tomei Fuel Pressure regulator because he went MIA with my 1st one.
- While we installed the new Tomei FPR, I didn’t know I needed the gauge (should have just gotten one to be complete). Avoiding the pitfall of cheap prices on ebay, I ordered from Z1 Motorsports.
- Mac Valve mount. I was planning to install the MAC valve I had, but realize that I need to get a bracket to mount it. A quick look online and I found a solution. So I ordered one from Circuit 7.
- I also ordered some generic oil catch can so I can set it up for a tune for the time being. Eventually, I want to get a decent catch can and figure out a good location for it.
- Generic coolant overflow reservoir
- I also ordered a Brake Master Cylinder shield. While I do have my turbo mounted lower, I want to shield the brake master cylinder as much as possible. One of the previous owners put some heat reflective material on the the brake master cylinder itself, but I figure have a shield anyways. Originally I was suppose to get one from P2M, but I was having a hard time with them. I did find someone on Ebay who makes and sells them for $10 cheaper and in black (which is what I wanted) and so I got one.
The other 2 things that needed to be taken cared of was the Intake manifold comes off due to the water inlet leaking
Here is an view from underneath.
The tip of the day is, due it once properly, so you don’t have to do it again. This inlet pipe isn’t sold by Greddy individually. It is pressed in. When I got this, it was damaged (used). Boost Doc sold these inlets, but it did have a loose feel to it. Everyone said it doesn’t fit right. Hung and Matt (Thrice Engineering) used RVT and put it in.
We should have just welded it and use JB weld to lock it in. Now I had the intake removed so this can be taken cared of.
My cousin Sid had a friend take out the intake and he mentioned a hose was cracked and should be replaced. Yes, I am not trying to use old hoses. When this was being assembled, an old hose was used.
Upon closer look…
The guy who took it of said it felt and looked brittle. At this stage of the build, I don’t want failure due to an oversight like this.
Additionally,
The cold side pipe that Matt (Thrice Engineering) fabbed up a few months ago has to get an IAC bung and a PVC barb for the oil catch can. I don’t know why that wasn’t done back then as well. So I got all that stuff taken out.
I think after that, I can slap the car together and the engine bay will be fully complete.
My dude Charlie who works for Infinite Auto Design and West Coast Customs is an EV guy and said he could wire up my digital cluster… that to me was something I REALLY wanted to do.
My goal was to get this car started this year, but these dumb setbacks have just been absolutely stupid.